As a food critic, sometimes it’s hard to dish the criticism along with the praise. I know just how hard the hospitality industry is, and the pressure that chefs and staff face with every service.
The latest high-end restaurant in Hobart encapsulates the meaning of the name, but will it have longevity? Not sure.
To explain: Omotenashi signals the Japanese core values of anticipation, selflessness and sincerity. Or, giving from the heart and an almost obsessive attention to detail. Having lived in Japan for 2 years, I used to say, when we’re all living on Mars, the Japanese will be still polishing the wheel.
And in this case, I think the name for this new restaurant, being in the Lexus Showroom of all places, is exceptionally clever, in that it mirrors the Lexus principles, but echoed in a dining experience.
However, the big question for me, is the cost: $300 a head, which is jaw-dropping to say the least, and certainly exclusive. How many couples can afford to blow at least $600 on a dinner out, and then taxi home?
Pushing that bar even higher, Omotenashi serves just two nights a week. So that explains a little about the high charge, but as a diner, I’m not totally amenable to that. Exclusivity is all very well, but good to great food can be had for much less at other venues.
However, let’s look at the offerings and in this case, I will leave the decision to try or not, up to you, the reader. Luke Burgess designed the kitchen and layout. Luke is well remembered in Hobart from his signature restaurant – Garagistes, and his varied offerings since.
With just 10 seats (and 12 at a push) the chefs Laughlin (Colwill) and Sophie (Pope) are the performers, the food is the art. Just four years ago, both were in Adelaide, and after a while swirling around a couple of outlets in Hobart, they landed at Luke’s Seven and a Half pop-up restaurant. With 10 seats.
Laughlin decided that was his wheelhouse, and Omotenashi was born.
To keep the Japanese style experience, the menu is omakase style, with 16 courses, matched drinks, alcoholic or not, including unlimited sake. And of course, sashimi begins the degustation. (And omakase refers to chef’s choice, so no menu, you get what the chef cooks or prepares, and that’s it.)
There will be a variety of interesting dishes, all very seasonal, a lot of the fresh produce foraged (another modern idea that I’m currently exploring – not so sure that I trust all chefs to really do their homework).
A couple of memorable dishes: chawanmushi – a savoury egg custard, ‘monkey bread’, calamari noodles in dashi (broth) and local Wagyu beef shabu shabu, whirled through a shiitake mushroom stock. (The words shabu shabu are the Japanese interpretation of the swooshing sound the food makes as it swirls in the broth.)
Desserts are different, of course and Jerusalem artichoke ice cream pushed the boundaries, but somehow worked. Freshly brewed herbal tea finishes the experience, and guests are sent home with a printed copy of the menu on Japanese rice paper.
The main issue I have with Omotenashi, is the location: yes, it’s a grand marketing ploy for Lexus, and guests are encouraged to put their valuables in the open boots of the cars in the showroom.
But, and for me it’s a big but, sitting up at a bar for a night leaning across to dine is convivial, and good to interact with the chefs, but it’s not comfortable. Conversation between guests is not easy as they sit all in a row, so the entire performance is led by the chefs.
Not every dish is going to amaze every diner, and at $300 a head, I could think of much more convivial places in which to dine, and still interact with the chefs, but be comfortable without the not so subtle sales pressure of “Buy a Lexus”.
Still, I wish them well, and will watch the evolution of Omotenashi with interest. I hope they just aren’t paying a steep rent for the privilege. Being part of a heavy-handed sales pitch is not what I would have bought into in my chef days. But – it’s a world where the public are seeking new and different entertainments.
And in hospitality, we’re seeing an evolving showcase of ideas and platforms. It’s an interesting era, that’s for sure.
Yours sincerely,
The Dish
