When a very urbane, food loving fine art valuer and dealer comes to town, where to go? Aah… either Glass House, or Frank methinks.
Frank it is, and it’s great.
Owned by a very clever trio of friends and business partners, who somehow manage to keep Smolt, Smolt Kitchen, and Frank all pumping out great food under the one umbrella, Frank is a sign that Hobart is all grown up now.
The restaurant tips its hat to the Argentinian theme of chargrilled beef, tapas, empanadas, or pies, and inventive dishes that are meant to be shared. What’s hot right now in restaurant town? Grazing, of course, and either for 2 or 14 covers, (they state that in this venue, that’s their limit), this style sits very well.
I love, and have always loved the décor. It’s glitzy, modern, clever and somehow manages to fit a lot of people without ever seeming crowded.
We kick start our feast with a dozen oysters fire-roasted with blended chorizo, peppers and garlic. At $42 the dozen, not cheap, but the flavours are sublime. Extra sauce on the side.
We move on to crispy Tasmanian squid with a caper and lemon cream, and tomatillo ketchup. It works, and lovely to see them using tomatillos which look like little green tomatoes and have a delicious sweetness about them. $22.
Next, the grilled quail with a lentil braise, and pea sprouts. Perfectly cooked, slightly pink tender flesh, and the lentils and sprouts complement the meat perfectly. $29. A green salad topped with pepita seeds and pickles at $9.90 is a generous serve.
The Entrana – inside skirt steak at $39 is delicious – rare, smoky, served with the traditional chimichurri and salsa picante. We do our best, but just can’t quite finish it all. And while the desserts are so very tempting, we call it quits.
I washed it all down with a couple of glasses of Meadowbank Sauvignon Blanc 2016 at $8.50, and the service? Impeccable. Discreet, knowledgeable and well-trained staff set Frank apart from the pack. It’s very easy to fall into a vat of their delicious and inventive cocktails, but don’t leave without tasting the food.
Frank Restaurant and Bar
Franklin Wharf, Hobart
Open 11am – late 7 days
Phone: 6231 5005
Just The Sizzle is heading into Frank’s kitchens to shoot some chefs’ tips and dishes – have you any favourites you’d like us to explore? Speak now, or you’ll miss your chance!